Epilogue

Dresden, November 2011


While the stubbornly detail-obsessed nostalgic in me would have preferred being delivered to the Hauptbahnhof in a forward-facing window seat of a Deutsche Bahn train, I was instead dropped off at Bahnhof Neustadt by a middle-aged Berliner driving a late-model Ford hatchback (arranged through a ride-sharing service). So began my triumphant return to Dresden in November 2011!

My friend Chris and I have at least one thing in common: Some level of appreciation for and/or experience with Germany. While I can only admire from a distance his dedication to learning the language and immersing himself in the culture, we still used to regularly share our experiences living there over beers at East Village dives. So when he finally took the ultimate step in his embrace for the culture and moved from New York to Berlin the Summer of 2011, we agreed that at some point in the future, he could show me around Berlin, and I could show him around Dresden. Bundled with a last-minute visit to my dear brother in London, Chris and I made that seemingly-hypothetical trip a reality!


Where were we? Ah, yes, Bahnhof Neustadt! Needless to say, the first thing we did was grab a Wegbier for our trek to the hostel. Where was the hostel located? Oh, just on the corner of one of those quintessentially beautiful, narrow-street blocks in the heart of Neustadt, on Louisenstrasse and Goerlitzerstrasse--one block away from Katy's Garage (more on that later)!

So we get checked in, it's around 8 pm, and it's freezing cold, mind you. So Chris is ready to relax and grab a bier at one of these world-famous-according-to-Jeff Neustadt night spots he's been hearing so much about. Me? Fuck no. I'd been waiting four fucking years for this. So I put my foot down: We're going to the river.

"Aren't we going to that part of town tomorrow anyway?"

"Yup."

"Is it a short walk?"

"Nope."

"Is it a particularly nice walk?"

"Nope."

So we suffer through the cold, walking through Albertplatz, then down Hauptrasse, all to the accompaniment of Chris' not-too-serious-complaining. We emerge from the pedestrian underpass that crosses Meissnerstrasse, walk down the steps that connect the Augustusbruecke to my old favorite Biergarten, and then, the angels start to sing, causing any complaints to cease immediately:



The View is everything I remember it to be and so much more. And it's not just nostalgia: Despite the fact that we were cold and hungry, we spent an hour hanging out right there on the Neustadt bank of the Elbe (Elbebiering, if you will). Chris told me that if everything else about our trip to Dresden proved to be a failure, The View itself was worth the journey from Berlin, the cost of the hostel, and so on and so forth.

Next stop: Team Ararat. Not much to say here, except that it is delicious, and the staff is still friendly. I will omit our subsequent Ararat visit, and the visit to the Doener shop across the street from Ararat that we once ate at just because we were embarrassed to be having two Doeners within a four-hour period.

Which brings us to what was, ironically, supposed to be the highlight of our first night, but ended up being the biggest disappointment of the whole trip: Katy's Garage. I basically felt like a parent chaperoning a high school dance. So we did what any good chaperones would do: Played foosball while reminiscing about the days when I, too, was young enough to join in the fun on the dance floor (the night we went was mostly 90's alternative rock, e.g. Nirvana and The Offspring).

So it turns out that Lebowski Bar, which I had once frequented with The Ohioans, is more for folks of our age and tastes. It's small and cramped, it's cheap, it has an ironic/vintage/quirky theme, and the patrons are all in their mid-20's clad with facial hair and skinny jeans: It is, as Chris pointed out to me after several Radebergers, New York. I laughed at myself for being "that guy" who seeks the familiarity of home when abroad--but hey, I didn't care. I was happy. I was in Dresden.

Saturday, our only full day in Dresden, was for being tourists (mainly for Chris' benefit) and nostalgia-seekers (solely for my benefit). I found myself much more appreciative of gawking at all that Innere Altstadt has to offer--Hofkirche, Frauenkirche, Semperoper, der Zwinger--than I ever was when living there. So much, in fact, that I insisted on a classy, high-price lunch at the Radeberger restaurant, built into the bluff of and overlooking the Elbe.


After hours of soaking in the beauty of Innere Altstadt with my renewed, matured sense of appreciation, it was time to begin the walk down memory lane--or, in this case, Pragerstrasse. There's nothing particularly pleasant about the walk up Pragerstrasse from Innere Altstadt to the Hautpbahnhof; in fact, many would call it downright unpleasant, in that whole shopping mall meets Times Square kind of way. But it is a walk that I once took so often for so many different reasons with so many different people, that it formed the physical backbone of an era of my life.

We walked out of the still-stunningly-Baroque Hauptbahnhof; crossed St Petersberger Strasse with its maze of above-ground, elevated pipes; and through the little overgrown plaza that serves as the shortcut to Hoschschulstrasse. Walking up the gently-sloped, half-cobbled, half-crumbling-asphalt street, to that glorious shining beacon of green that I once called home, we took in the other DDR-era buildings flanking the street, famously compared to 1960's American middle schools by none other than my own brother Alex. Chris thanks me for the opportunity to see the "real" Dresden--a city best known internationally for its near-obliteration in World War II and subsequent reconstruction--putting to rest any guilt I had for dragging him through the setting of my old life.

And it was just a setting. Walking around Dresden four years later felt like walking around a movie set. The buildings, the streets, the bars, the doener shops, the trams--they were all physically there, but any relationship I once had with them, and the people with whom I shared these experiences, are not there. Two days seemed sufficient for me to get my nostalgic fix, and for Chris to get an idea of the city, but I couldn't help but think of what I wouldn't get a chance to do: Ride my bike along the Elberadweg to Pirna, eat at the Mensa, drink at the student bars... Of course what I really wanted to do was relive those three months, but that is of course silly.

Chris' open-minded embrace of the otherwise mundane gave me the confidence to continue the nostalgia tour right through the University campus! And so began the old commute: Crossing the roaring six-way mega-intersection of Zellescherweg and Bergstrasse--in lockstep with the phases of the traffic signals and the herds of students on foot and bike, through the overgrown courtyards amongst the gracefully-aging campus buildings, past the Mensa, and up the promenade to Barkhausen Bau. Meanwhile, Chris was using the campus buildings to prime me on his new-found passion for brickwork. He was particularly delighted to find a quite excellent example of English Cross in Dresden.


The walk through campus conveniently brings us to the terminal station of the number 3 tram, which we take, via a transfer to the 10 at the Hauptbahnhof, to Grossergarten. And I even bought a ticket! With its combination of the ornately-landscaped sitting and gathering plazas of a Parisian park, English-style winding paths through more naturalistic landscapes, sports fields, and performance art spaces--tied together by the overgrown aesthetic of a German park, a DDR-built narrow-guage children’s railroad, and a 17th-centuray Baroque palace--Grossergarten is, to me, the ideal urban park. This is where I was re-born as a park-goer. I had no trouble locating my old favorite bench!



But unlike when I could go to Grossergarten every day after work and read on my favorite bench until 8 or 9 pm, it was winter, and darkness was fast approaching. So we hightailed it to the 13 tram which brought us back to our hostel in Neustadt, and a long night of Ararat Doeners and Radebergers at Lebowski Bar. I left Dresden the next morning with a hangover fit for the Summer of 2007.



Full album (115 photos)

Out of Sabbatical

Welcome

Welcome to my faithful and unfaithful readers alike! It has been a while since my last post, and I can assure you that this is for a very good reason. When your schedule is packed full with exciting activities such as falling asleep in the library and park, getting drunk in Neustadt, and watching episodes of Salute Your Shorts via the internet, it's kind of hard to keep up! Where does the time go? Really, though, my life in Dresden will meet its carefully planned premature death in about a week, so this is most likely going to be the last entry with any sense of normalcy. Will there be a special end-of-summer entry? Some kind of epilogue? Well, it's going to be hard to write an epilogue for what essentially amounts to personal memoirs, that is, unless I can somehow predict the future. Better yet, I'll just make things up. Really, though, between the last entry and the present, we have had several weekend trips, made some new friends, lost an old friend, and had a wonderful time throughout it all. So sit back, grab a cup of fresh-ground, fresh-brewed coffee, and listen to the exciting tales of our hero in Dresden.

Attack of the Giant Buses

It would be a shame to associate oneself with only a single subculture. Life is more exciting when your interests lack any discernible pattern, leading your friends, loved ones, and voice inside your head to wonder just who the hell you are. In other words, it can never hurt to, among other things, be a complete and total dork. This is why I was so eagerly awaiting the day of 21 July. For now, I know how it all ends. He dies. Dumbledore comes back to life as a three-headed unicorn, and Snape takes advantage of Hermoine in his dungeon one day after potions class. Ron and Neville turn out to be gay, and join a group of wizards who are on a quest to secure equal rights. Hogwarts gets bulldozed to make room for a Muggle shopping mall.

Okay, so if you had been keeping up with the blog, you would know that I went to London on the weekend of 21 July, with the primary goal of securing a copy of Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows in the center of all the action, and the secondary goal of seeing some of London. I got the book. I have since read it. I am a more enlightened person because of it. I had the same problem with the London trip as I did with the Berlin trip. Two nights is not enough time to experience a city. As usual, my friends were happy with their game show style super-intense digital camera scavenger hunt. For me, one of the highlight was when I ditched my friends, and roamed the city on my own. I decided that the best way to do this was to get on the Underground, and get off at whichever station I deemed to have the funniest name. Long story short, I ended up in a place called Elephant and Castle. I believe I found what I was looking for here. It felt like a more authentic part of the city, far far away from the digital camera carnival that is the touristy area. The people were more racially diverse, and acted completely differently than the people in the city center. I also used some of my alone time to do some high-quality people watching in Hyde Park. Once again, time well spent. I suppose people watching is a decent way to get a feel for a city when on a limited time and money budget.

Yes, I'm sure some of you want to complain that, once again, I have no pictures to share with you. Try this. Go to www.images.google.com and type in "London." That should get you more pictures of Big Ben and the London Bridge than you can handle.

Realizing My Previously-Conceived Images of Germany

Given my limited knowledge of contemporary German culture, before I moved here, I had two images that I always associated with Germany. With a one-liter mug of beer in one hand, an unnecessarily large sausage in the other, and a lederhosen-clad brass band playing nearby, I was finally able to turn one of my stereotypical images into a reality. Regarding the second image of the two, I have been checking event calendars all summer, but alas I don't think Hitler is scheduled to shout from a podium any time soon.

I am referring of course to a trip to Munich. We didn't get to do anything too terribly exciting in the city itself. On the first night, we went to this place that was essentially an amusement park for night life. Of course, this really didn't do it for me, and had that main-stream superficial feel that makes me crave the grungy underground scene that is Dresden Neustadt. For example, the main thoroughfare of the area was called "Coca Cola Road." Okay, now you see there is no reason for me to continue explaining how this wasn't my type of place. In a sea of homogeneous establishments catering to everybody and nobody at the same time, there was one beacon of hope. I found a very small bar with no cover charge that had live music. Not just any live music: Stereotypical German metal. Awesome. I enjoyed this as long as it would last, but after the bands stopped playing I had no choice but to leave the area altogether.

One of the planned highlights of the Munich trip was to take a train about two hours out to some castle. Apparently it is very famous, and was the inspiration for the Disney World castle. I forget the name of it, and could probably find it out relatively quickly through some combination of Google and Wikipedia, but it really doesn't seem two important. In fact, in the time it took me to type these few sentences justifying my decision, I could have easily looked up the name of the place. We payed an exorbitant fee to take a guided tour, and I must admit the inside of the place was pretty crazy. Just to give you in idea, there was an artificial indoor cave on the third floor near King Ludwig's bedroom. This guy was nuts. After the tour, I was permitted to do a little hiking around the surrounding areas. Here I found some breathtaking views of the Bavarian Alps, the valley below, and of course the castle itself. Believe it or not, I actually did take pictures! Unfortunately for you, my faithful and unfaithful readers, I am writing this from work, thus do not have the means to include these pictures. I could lie and say that I'll post them later, but that just won't happen.

After the castle ordeal, we went back to Munich for the night. Like I said, a beer hall has always been crucial to my stereotypes of Germany, so I felt that I absolutely had to visit the famous Hofbrauhaus in Munich. It was everything I had ever thought it could be and so much more. The ceiling was high and vaulted, the tables were long, the waitresses had braided blond hair, a brass band was playing, and of course everyone was being extremely loud and drunk. The only problem is that they apparently stop serving at some inordinately early hour like 23:00, so I was unable to join the festivities myself. Oh well. At least I got to see it. On Sunday, the girls went to some boring sounding town, and Navin, Sameer and I spent the day in Munich. We did a bike tour, very similar to what I experienced in Berlin. Just like in Berlin, I found this to be a lot of fun, and a good way to meet some people and get a quick background on the history of the city. The scene with me holding a beer and a sausage in the near of a brass band took place at the second largest beer garden in the world in the middle of the bike tour. I had two liters of extra-strong beer (even by German standards) and was nice and drunk for the rest of the tour.

Goodbye Kent...

As I mentioned before, I lost a few friends, mainly the people hitherto referred to as "The Ohioans." Unfortunately, this group of people, now renamed "Ohio: Gen I," has returned to their motherland. My last adventure with Nick was on a Monday night when I was innocently sitting in my room at midnight talking to my parents on the Meebo, about to go to sleep. I hear a knock on the door, and am asked, "Do you want to get [non-parent-friendly verb removed] and go to Neustadt?" Well hell yeah! So we went to a place called the "Lebowski Bar." I know what you're thinking, and you're absolutely right. This is a bar that is dedicated through and through to the kick-ass comedy, "The Big Lebowski." The music and art of the wall are inspired by the movie, and the movie itself plays on a continuous loop on two television monitors. Friggin' awesome.

...And Hello Columbus!

You know what they say. No matter how far you travel in this world, you always end up in Ohio. Okay, maybe the proverbial "they" do not say this, but I sure do. With not even a few days lag after Ohio Gen I left, a group of 27 study abroad students from Ohio State University stormed the International Guest House and turned it into the American college dormitory I have always dreamed of crossing the Atlantic to live in. Really, though, Ohio Gen II is a very fun group of people whom I have been going out with all throughout last weekend. They are not the over-achiever types by any means, but love to get excessively drunk and party hard. A very refreshing change in pace. Whereas some of my RISE friends like to complain about my immature attitude and failure to become sufficiently assimilated into the German way of life, these guys like to get drunk and complain about how much they miss ESPN.

Hey, Jeff, where's my #$^&ing post card?

Come on, now. You guys know I'm terrible with anything that can be remotely described as a "responsibility." To put things into perspective, I have done laundry exactly two times since moving to Dresden, and I have about a week-long supply of cloths. I even applied to the RISE program late. Just to reassure you that I haven't completely forgotten, I actually purchased the post cards themselves! Now all I have to do is write things on them, and send them via the mail. This is a lot of work. Like I said, I'm a very busy person. That padded bench near the English section of the library isn't going to sleep on itself.

Okay, I think that's it for now, even though there is plenty I am leaving out. My usual post frequency was once a week, and it has been three weeks since the previous post. There are two ways to handle this: Either make the post three times as long, or include on third of the details. This thing has taken almost 90 minutes to write as it is! So farewell, thanks for reading, and stay tuned for whatever special end-of-summer entry may or may not be to come.

Fake Tales of Dresden

The End of the Blogging Craze

Judging by the activity with respect to both posting and comments on my blog and my sister blogs (Dan, Emily, Frank, and Greg), I think it is safe to say that the Euro-Blogging Craze of Summer 2007 is officially dead. In no way do I blame my colleagues, as it is every bit as much my fault as it is theirs. I remember the first half of the summer when throughout the course of my week, I would consistently think to myself, "This will make great blogging material!" I would eagerly await Sunday nights when I got to compose a nice, witty essay, enthusiastically detailing my experiences, bitching about America, and droning on about my worthless thoughts. The enthusiasm just isn't there any more. I believe part of it is that I spend too much time with my friends, allowing my time and thoughts to be consumed by a social life that, similar to the social life of any person my age, just isn't that interesting to those outside of the group. But alas, I will continue posting weekly, even though there are only two people who are going to read it. So this is for you, Mom and Dad!

I'll Bet That They Looked Good at the Alter Schlachthof

Most of you probably do not understand the parodies that make up both the title of this post and bold heading of this section. In that case, you will probably not be able to share my excitement. Last Tuesday night was, in some ways, the best night of my summer. It had nothing to do with German culture, my wonderful new friends, or the kick ass city of Dresden. What then, you ask? I got to see the British Indie Rock sensation Arctic Monkeys right here in Dresden! For those of you out of touch with my taste in music, the Arctic Monkeys are one of my favorite bands, right up there with Muse; ¡Forward, Russia!; and Radiohead. The show was absolutely fantastic. The Arctic Monkeys do not have much of a stage presence, but both the music and the crowd were amazing. I ended up in nearly every part of the Alter Schlachthof (old slaughterhouse), which was a seatless venue roughly the size of your average elementary school gym. At some points I was within ten feet of the stage, with a crowd so dense that I could just about pick me feet up and be transported around the floor. Mosh pits were common everywhere throughout the house, even as far as half way back from the stage. Once again, a great crowd, and a great show. I can now check off another item on the list of bands that I absolutely have to see live.

Heidelberg Conference

Many of you may or may not be aware of the fact that the people who are funding my stay here, the DAAD (German Academic Exchange Service) arranged a very nice weekend retread for all of us in the program. The conference took place in the ultra-touristy and university-ish city of Heidelberg.

The City of Heidelberg

I will begin this section with my impressions of the city. In addition to having the oldest university in Germany, Heidelberg is famous for its historic, unbombed Altstadt ("old town," i.e. historic district) and some castle on a hill. Let's get the cynicism out of the way first. The Altstadt was aesthetically appealing, with narrow, car-free streets adorned with beautiful architecture. But, like I said, Heidelberg is a very touristy city. The "different time, different place" feel created by the historical nature of the area, combined with incessant digital cameras, made the Altstadt feel like Disney World to me. As far as the castle is concerned, we have parks in Dresden, too. Only ours are better, because there are no tourists. But wait! I liked Heidelberg! Early on Sunday afternoon, I had decided that I had been around people too much, and I owed it to myself as a self-proclaimed introvert to strap on some headphones and walk around the city on my own terms. I found an area called Neueheim that suited me quite well. The streets were relatively narrow and the architecture was beautiful, but I still got the feel of a city that was relevant to the present day in ways other than tourism. In many ways the aesthetic aspects of this part of Heidelberg reminded me of Dresden Neustadt, one of my favorite places on Earth. Note that I specifically said "aesthetic aspects." Socially, this place could not be any different than Dresden Neustadt. The streets were absolutely deserted at sun fall. I asked a Canadian living in Heidelberg about alternative culture, and he said that it can be found, but there is nothing comparable to Dresden Neustadt. This is the case for most cities, though. Dresden Neustadt is a very special place, and this makes me that much happier.

The Conference

Oh, to be in high school again! Check in was from 12:30 - 13:30. Coffee and cake was then served until 14:30. At 15:00, we congregated in the lobby to walk to a lecture hall. From 16:00 - 18:30, we sat in a lecture hall and learned why Germany needs us, and why we need Germany. Dinner was served at 19:00 for last names A-M, and 20:00 for N-Z. And so on. Here I am most certainly not being cynical. I love this kind of structure! And yes, we were still treated like grown ups: No curfew! This type of event, with this exact amount of structure, is my perfect environment for meeting new people. There was an unspoken agreement amongst us Dresdners that we would do our best to meet other people instead of hanging out with each other, to the point that I found it awkward to be more or less intentionally ignoring people whom I consider to be relatively good friends. Either way, we were all very successful in "branching out." I met many people whom I enjoyed spending time with, but will never see again as long as I live. Of course, this just reminded me how devastated I am going to be in about a month's time from now.

Field Trip

Let's begin this italics sub-heading with a multiple-choice quiz question.

Jeff is spending the summer in Germany. During the course of said summer, Jeff is going on a field trip! His stereotypical field trip is to one of the following locations:

A. A sausage Factory

B. A Porsche, Mercedes, or BMW Factory

C. A John Deere Tractor Factory

D. A Brewery

E. None of the above

If you answered 'C,' you were correct! Really. I'm not joking. On Friday morning, myself and about twenty other RISE participants boarded a charter bus with two chaperons to visit the Heidelberg Printing Press Factory in the morning, and the John Deere Tractor Factory in the afternoon. Once again, I find the field trip environment both fun and nostalgically satisfying. Although I didn't realize this before the Heidelberg Print Press Factory tour, it is ingrained in my personality to be fascinated by a modern-day factory. Given the way I gawk at traffic lights, public transportation conveyances, and interstate highway interchanges, why wouldn't a factory fascinate me? After this first tour, we were given a first-class cafeteria lunch. Do I need to remind anyone how excited I get about cafeteria food (only 13 hours until the Mensa!)? Like I said, the afternoon was a tour of a John Deere factory. At this point I was all toured-out, and just wanted to sit down and relax, somewhere outside of the oppressively hot factory. And no, I was not given a free John Deere hat, crushing my dreams of actually fitting in at Virginia Tech once and for all.

Happy Fourth of July!

So like I said, the conference was a great time, meeting new people, experiencing a new city, and having some nostalgic moments from my field trip days. For the most part I do not feel inclined to go into details about night-time social activities (drinking, dancing... you know us young people well enough to paint your own picture) perhaps with the exception of Saturday, my last night in Heidelberg. About four times a year, the City of Heidelberg lights up the castle in red and shoots off fireworks. I went up to the top of a hill with a group of people I met from RISE, and ended up being joined by a Canadian, a New Zealander, and some Germans. We had a stereotypical European picnic with bread, cheese, and wine. After the fireworks, we went out dancing, as usual. All in all, it was a great Fourth of July celebration, despite the fact that the Germans messed up the date. Silly Germans.

Navin and I got back to Dresden in time on Sunday for an outdoor concert on the Elbe. Fireworks and lit-up castles can be as pretty as could be, but without an emotional attachment to the city, it's just aesthetic beauty and nothing more. Sitting on the Elbe in the midst of a festive atmosphere with live music and a picturesque view of Innere Altstadt, I remembered once more that life is good.

Where are the Pictures?

I think it is about time I come clean and admit the fact that I am simply not a camera person. To put it bluntly, those rechargeable batteries are much more useful to me nestled safely in my portable CD player, where they belong. I have forced you to read an essay which takes place in a beautiful city where I met a crap-ton of people and had a great time. But alas, there are no street scenes for you to see, and no pictures of happy-looking drunk people. I swear I'm not trying to make a point here. I'm too lazy to take pictures, and for that I apologize.

Thanks for reading, Mom and Dad!

Ice Cream with Tom

Welcome and Introduction

Good afternoon, faithful readers. This is the first entry after spending about a week and a half with some combination of Frank, Greg, and my Big Brother Alex. Much has happened over this time period, including an extended weekend in Prague, thus I doubt my ability to remember all of the exciting details. I will do my best to convey to you, my faithful readers, a general idea of what has happened.

Weekdays in Dresden

The Arrival of Frank and Greg

Frank and Greg arrived on a Saturday Evening, and my Big Brother the day after on Sunday. To be honest we really haven't done anything too exciting here, although there has been more alcohol involved than usual. Saturday afternoon began with Jess and I drinking on the rock garden. We starved ourselves waiting for our friends to arrive at the hauptbahnhof, only to be disappointed when they did not emerge from the train they were supposed to have. Considering they had to take a total of about four connections and were basically drunk the whole time, this isn't too surprising. Jess and I walked home dejectedly, sat on the rock garden, and half an hour later saw Frank and Greg stumbling their way up Hochschulestrasse. Once Frank and Greg got their possessions safely situated in my dorm room, we began the long hike towards the Neustadt. Frank and Greg enjoyed doeners at our beloved Team Ararat, while Jess and I just watched. Jess and I each had two doeners the day before and one the day of, so we decided to be reasonable and resist the temptation.

The Arrival of my Big Brother Alex

Despite the fact that we did not communicate whatsoever regarding the logistics of his visit, we managed to greet my brother coming off of his train on Sunday evening with no problems whatsoever. When dinner time approached he insisted on going out for Chinese, but we agreed to settle on Indian. This prompted another long walk to the Neustadt and incessant complaining on the part of my brother. While passing through Innere Altstadt, we saw an opera that was assembled right in the middle of a public square. This made the walk well worth it, in my opinion. Unfortunately we could not stick around very long to listen, as despite the fact that she had just come back from an action-packed weekend in Saxon Switzerland, Emily had agreed to meet us in the Neustadt and we were already running late. Dinner was fun, and everyone seemed to get along very well.

Elevator Lobbies and Buildings Under Construction

Monday night was the stereotypical night of American college student drunkenness. We did not go "out" or anything normal like that. The night began on the rock garden with liter of wine hour. Unfortunately it started to rain, so we stepped right inside from where the rock garden is, into the second floor elevator lobby of the international guest house. At this point we were fairly drunk, and were in no hurry to leave. Between me, Jess, Frank, Greg, Alex, and a friend Alex had met in the Prague, we had a healthy amount of people just sitting on the floor getting drunk in front of the elevator. Back when I was sober, I had invited Emily to come over with the understanding that we would introduce our visitors to excessively large, fancy, alcoholic ice cream. This unfortunately meant that she had to enter the rowdiest elevator lobby in the world completely sober. A subset of us followed through with the original ice cream plans, while others remained behind. I learned the next day that those who remained behind illegally entered a nearby building which was under construction. Judging from the pictures and enthusiasm of their stories, it sounds like they had a great time.

Wednesday's Dinner Party

The next evening in Dresden was very uneventful, other than the fact that I discovered a new favorite doener shop. I have been back three times. On Wednesday, my brother left for Prague at some point while I was at work. We kicked off the evening with a dinner party between me, Frank, Greg, Emily, and Teri. It was very fun, rowdy, and drunken. We kicked off the meal by saying the Pledge of Allegiance for Teri's benefit. She told us that every Canadian school day begins by pledging the flag of the United States of America, and we wanted her to feel at home. A half hour later, after the Pledge of Allegiance and other loud, drunken antics, my new German room mate (who speaks very little English) emerged from his room. Oops. After fifteen minutes of a dance party in my dorm room, we realized that we should probably go out for real. We chose Club Aquarium, which is quickly becoming my new favorite Place of Convenience. We even joined my Friend of Convenience, Jess, who was unable to attend the dinner party due to a date with a horse.

It should also be noted that my visitors have taken a liking to the Mensa as well. The most fun part is getting the student price for everyone, despite the fact that they are not entitled to it. We approach the cash register in a semicircle, and I just start pointing to everyone's trays. The cashier asks for their student IDs, and we just act incredibly confused. Everyone began handing her random, expired American student IDs, and the cashier just looked at them and shook her head in disappointment. We just kept standing our ground acting confused until the cashier eventually gave up and allowed us to pay the student price anyway. This is what I like to call a "language barrier showdown." Each party has a conflicting goal, and tries to state their case in a language which the other party does not understand. Eventually, everyone just looks awkward and starts laughing, and the more confused looking party gets their way. See also: Language Barrier Pictionary, Language Barrier Charades, and Language Barrier $100,000 pyramid.


Prague: The Greatest City in America

Yeah, Prague was freaking awesome. The fact that my brother had lived there for an extended period of time and knew which clubs and stuff to go to didn't hurt. We went out and had a great time every night (expect for the last night, which was just sort of average), and spent every day just wandering the streets and hanging out in parks. No museums allowed. We had such a great time that I even blew off a second day of work to stay longer. I know, this is very out of character for me.

On our first night, we went out dancing. I suppose the music was some kind of dance music. Either way it was very fun, as we were very drunk. The next night was much better, though, as we saw an awesome indie rock band called The Prostitutes. I am going to put much effort into finding a recording of their music. After the live music, there was a mass exodus from the club, despite the presence of a DJ. There were many moments where my brother and I were the only two on the dance floor (especially when the DJ played Nirvana and the Arctic Monkeys).

The third night was awesome because we met Big Rock at an expat hangout far away from the touristy city center. At first we thought he was a huge bullshitter, as he talked about touring with bands and having a princess for a girlfriend. It turned out that he was a bit more legitimate than we thought, as waves of girls came into the bar and greeted him in a very friendly manner. He even has his own plaque on the bar. That's freaking crazy. The bar itself was amazing, as evidenced by the time that I heard both Choking Victim and Neutral Milk Hotel played over the sound system.

Prague is great because you can more or less live like an American life in the city. There are plenty of bars and clubs that are overrun with both tourists and those living away from home for extended periods of time. We even went to a bagel shop--a real, live, American-style bagel shop (there was a section of the menu titled "From the grill...")

I could really write a lot more regarding the weekend in Prague, but I have to meet my brother back home in twenty minutes. I am writing this from work.

Essay Contest - Win a Personalized Post Card!

You guys are doing good with commenting, but not great. I would like to see it kicked up a notch. Thus, I am offering rewards. For anyone who comments in the form of an essay about why they deserve a postcard from me, I am offering one personalized postcard mailed directly from Dresden to your place of residence. This is not an "everyone wins" kind of thing, but there will hopefully be more than one winner. The more effort you put into this, the more likely you are to receive the prize. Please include your mailing address in your essay. If you do not feel comfortable posting your address in this pseudo-public place, you may email it to me at jcsicsek@vt.edu. Good luck, and thanks for playing!

The Train is On Its Way!

Welcome

As I write this, my good friends Frank and Greg are on a train heading from Frankfurt. They arrive at the Dresden Hauptbahnhof at 20:43. Also, my big brother will be arriving some time tomorrow via airplane. Needless to say, I am absolutely ecstatic about these people coming over to spend time with me. I also can't wait to show them my city and introduce them to my friends. I think Frank knows what he is in for--I gave him a four-hour cycling tour of Blacksburg, and that place sucks compared to Dresden. The reason I am writing this blog entry early Saturday afternoon as opposed to my usual Sunday evening is I wanted to get one more in before all of my visitors arrive.

Wednesday Evening--Campus Party!

On Wednesday evening, Emily and I had the pleasure of attending the largest open-air university party in Germany. This event was very interesting, as it would never be allowed to happen on most American college campuses. There were two stages on the campus grounds for live music; one of them was quite large and hosted bands of national popularity. In addition to the live music acts, there were about five DJ floors in various university buildings. There was plenty of beer to be had, of course. The total attendance is estimated to be around 15.000.

When we first arrived at the party, we just kind of stood there and looked around, regretting the fact that we did not round up a larger group of English-speakers to enjoy the festivities with. We ended up having a good time anyway, though. Later in the evening we even managed to meet up with some of Emily's German friends from work. We saw two bands perform on the main stage. Both of them were a bit poppy for my tastes, but I enjoyed them nonetheless. This is one of those situations in which I find the language barrier to be highly amusing. Like I said, the music was quite poppy, so there were several times where everybody in the crowd knew the words to the songs and sang along. Of course, I did not "know the words" in more ways than one. Since English is just the coolest, trendiest language there is, both of the bands had at least one line worth of lyrics in English. This got me very excited and I cheered for it. I hope I didn't offend anyone.

Thursday Night - Ska Show

I think I mentioned in my last post that ska is very popular in Germany. On Thursday night, Emily, Navin and I went to a show that was actually in a club in the basement of a dorm. Pretty cool, eh? I was certainly a fan of the atmosphere in this place. Perhaps it isn't as cool as Neustadt, but it had a nice studenty feel to it. Aside from the fact that it was a ska show and ska shows are the most fun thing in the world, we saw this particular band because the saxophonist is on Emily's work team (Emily is one of those "well-connected" people who has a "social life"). This was Navin's first time at a ska show. When we picked him up at his dormitory, he came outside and said, "Do you think loafers will be okay for something like this?" Emily and I just laughed and sent him upstairs to change. I guess I should mention that Navin likes to dress well (probably has something to do with that whole "self esteem" thing I keep hearing so much about).

So the band was great, and I got some solid skanking in, which always makes me happy. After the band played, though, there was a DJ, and things got more into "dance party" mode. I was perfectly happy with this, because I enjoyed the music he was playing. Of course, I still have no idea how to dance. My technique for dancing to any music other than ska is to skank, but at the same time pretend that I am not skanking. Emily does not have this problem, though. She has apparently taken some twenty-five years of dance lessons. Am I jealous of her abilities? Not at all. I spent this time learning how to make coffee, which is a much more important skill. Seriously, though, she is so good that some guy at the bar thanked her for dancing. And I don't mean thanked her for dancing with him; he was just thanking her because her dancing added to the atmosphere of the dance party.

Friday - An Evening Sans Motivation

On Friday evening, Rae, Jess and I actually thought that we had the skills to go out at night by ourselves. This is a hilarious thought. All three of us are the kind of people who enjoy going out at night, we but require a "catalyst" to give us some direction. Unfortunately, our usual catalyst was at a barbecue or something, so it was just up to us. We began our evening with some doeners, and then sat on the rock garden and drank beer. This continued for several hours, until we agreed that we should probably do something. We eventually decided to turn to Ohio for help. Luckily our Ohioan friends were home and wanted to hang out with us, and they are more motivated people. Great catalysts. There was even a real live German amongst their ranks.

We hung out around the building for a bit longer and then headed to the tram. The original plan was to go Elbenbiering, although this never actually happened. One person in the group wanted to get a doener, so we went to my favorite Neustadt doener haus, Team Ararat. At this point Jess and I were drunk enough that we saw absolutely no problem with having two doeners in a single night. We had chicken doener just to switch things up a bit. We had brought plenty of beer with us, so there was no reason to go into a bar and pay massive amounts of money. We ended up just dicking around the streets of Neustadt for most of the evening. For me, this is a very agreeable way to spend time. Chances are I'm not going to meet people going into bars and clubs, so why not just have a good time with people you came with right on the streets? We did make it to the Elbe, but just for a few minutes to gape at the view and take some pictures. I never get tired of that view, and I make it even better for myself by repeating the phrase "I live here" over and over in my head.

This was just your classic night of getting drunk with friends. Good times. I am going to collect pictures from the various people we spent the evening with and post them at a later date.

I Am Retarded

A few entries ago, I shared one of many ways to interpret the language barrier. Here I am going to present a second, much more amusing interpretation, though both remain equally true. Let's take stock of my position within this society. I cannot read, write, or speak, and I require special accommodation in public places. Can you think of another group of people who exist under the same circumstances? Last night, for example, I ordered a doener. The man asked me if I wanted to eat my doener in his shop or take it with me. I responded by naming the different types of sauces I wanted on my doener. It's really funny to imagine how funny this would sound in your native language:

"For here or to go?"

"Uhhhh..... Garlic sauce, chili sauce..."

Conclusions and Farewell

The next entry you guys read will be packed full of stories with Frank, Greg, and my Big Brother Alex. For now, Jess and I are going to Grosser Garten to read books. This activity for which we have plenty of motivation.

Field Trip

Welcome

Your wishes have been fulfilled. After hours of staring at your computer screen pressing your web browser's "refresh" button, you are finally being treated to more ultra-insightful thoughts and observations from Jeff's mind. So put on your favorite music (preferably Balkan Beat Box's new album, "Nu Med"), grab some shitty American beer, and absorb every little nugget of witty, well thought-out prose.

Thursday - Strassenbiering

Parking Ticket

On Thursday evening, I got the first parking ticket of my life. On our way to the Elbe, Emily and I stopped at the hauptbahnhof to purchase a train ticket for our weekend field trip. When it comes to finding a place to lock up my bike, my only criteria is that it be an immobile object to which a cable lock can be successfully threated through. Unfortunately our friends at the Deutsche Bahn seemed to disagree. After being aided in an exhilarating fight with the ticket automat by some good old Saxon hospitality, we walked outside to get our bikes and found a notice placed on my frame underneath of my rear brake cable. Assuming it was just some sort of advertisement, I put it in my pocket and began to unlock my bike. I put my key in the first lock and unlocked it as normal. Unfortunately, I did not have a key to either of the second locks detaining both my and Emily's bikes. After playing Language Barrier Taboo with several employees of the DB, we finally got our bikes unlocked free of charge. All in all, this made for a fun adventure and a good story.

Strassenbiering

On Thursday night I discovered my new favorite activity: strassenbiering. (Linguistic background: "Strasse" is the German word for street. It is adjetivised by adding an "n", and concatenated with the word "beer" made into a gerund, to form my new word for the act of drinking beer on the streets). The original plan was to go Elbenbiering, but when we crossed the river we couldn't resist the temptation to visit our favorite Neustadt doener haus. After being entertained by our colorful Turkish friends, we stepped out onto the street (one of my favorites in the city) and decided that instead of going back to the Elbe, we would just sit on a concrete wall on the street and drink like the Neustadt punks that we are. In reality, this particular concrete wall really is in the middle of a massive punk gathering place. On a weekend, you can expect the number of punks gathered about this area well into the hundreds. I enjoy hanging out with punks under the condition that I have a guide (Alex) and they are speaking my language. Luckily, this scene does not seem to be present during the week, so it was just people like Emily and I who wanted to enjoy a beer on the street. We even met a group of people who were living in Dresden but originally hail from other parts of the world. They were all quite drunk, to varying degrees. The most coherent of the group that I spoke to was Daniel, who is originally from Russia. He gave me his phone number with the intention of trying to meet up on Friday night, but unfortunately Friday rolled around and I realized that I don't have a phone with which to call it. Too bad.

Strassenbiering may very well be one of my favorite activities of all time. I'm not surprised, though, as it is such a perfect combination of my favorite things in life: cities, beer, people watching, conversation, etc. I suppose it is a more social version of sitting on a street bench, drinking coffee, and reading a book.

Friday - Skankin' It Up in the Park

On Friday, I had the pleasure of attending what I assume to be the coolest festival this city has to offer: Bunten Republik Neustadt. It was quite unlike anything I have ever seen. The streets were literally packed to the point that it was impossible to move in some places. There were bands, DJs, beer and food stands, etc. packed amongst the crowd on the street. Most clubs had a free line up of live music for the night. I went over with Teri, Jess, someone with whom Teri works, and our newest new arrival, Sameer. We began by walking through the crowded street while enjoying some beer, and eventually ended up in the park into which the street terminates. The park was more or less filled with punks (this is Dresden Neustadt we're talking about here) and there was a stage at the front. When we first got there, it was just some angry metal band playing, so we sat in the grass at a safe distance from the stage and just took in our surroundings. As soon as the metal band finished their set, a new band started to set up. A trumpet, that's interesting. Wait a minute, is that a saxophone? A trombone? If I didn't know any better, I would say I am going to be treated to a ska band!!!

And right I was. The band was amazing. It's too bad I never learned their name, so I will be unable to explore their studio recorded music. I had the time of my life up in the pit, skanking like I have never skanked before. Halfway through the set, the band was talking to the audience in German so I was more or less standing still. Teri came up and said that everyone else wanted to leave. Perhaps it was the adrenaline talking, but I just didn't care. I told them that they could just leave without me. Unfortunately, this ended up with me being left completely alone. I stuck around to see what the next band was going to be, but unfortunately it was another metal band that I had no interest in seeing. I ended up taking the tram home much earlier than I would have liked to on an occasion like this. Long story short, I traded the last several hours of my evening for fifteen more minutes of ska show. Was it worth it? Hell yes!

Saturday and Sunday - Field Trip

The Itinerary

On Saturday at 04:00, we met one of our two teachers (Emily and Julie) at the school (Hauptbahnhof) to board the school bus (DB train) to go to Washington, DC (Berlin). We had plans to visit the Smithsonian museums (Checkpoint Charlie museum and German Jewish History museum) and to take a guided tour of the city. Like any good field trip, our carefully planned activities were supplemented with a bit of leisure time.

I can understand why my teachers (Emily and Julie) and classmates (Teri, Sameer, and Jess) wanted to take such an early train in order to maximize our time in the city, but it ended up killing any possibility of exploring Berlin's night life. It seemed that most of us, including myself, did not manage to get more than an hour's worth of fragmented sleep on the train. After we got home from a nice, long, drunken dinner at a Tapas bar, we sat around and literally fell asleep during the process of planning our night of going out.

I Have a Bad Attitude

I'm not really a museum type of person. That's right; I said it. I would not say that I was necessarily bored at the museums the same way a small child would be. In fact, I felt that I gained a lot of knowledge from them, and am eager to learn more on the topics they presented. I just don't understand why everyone automatically thinks that museums are the best way to spend time in a city. In my opinion, I would have been better off sitting right here in Dresden reading books about the history of the Berlin wall and the Jewish people in Germany. Then, I would have spent the time I would have otherwise spent in the museums really experiencing the city of Berlin. To me, this means spending the day walking the streets, hanging out in the parks and leisure areas, aimlessly exploring the public transportation system, etc. Then come night time I would meet some people in the hostel and go out and have a good time. The trip that I took to Montreal about half a year ago was absolutely perfect. In the short time I was there, I really got a feel for the city itself, met some cool people in the hostel, and never set foot inside of a museum. Whether or not there are museums in Montreal I do not know. If there are, I will go to my local library and check out books on their topics and read them at my leisure.

Me and Berlin: A Strong Feeling of Neutrality

My opinion of the city of Berlin has not changed from what it was before this field trip: It is some big city in Germany. Of course I can't say that I didn't like Berlin. It's freaking Berlin, it's supposed to be freaking awesome, right? My answer is yes, it probably is freaking awesome. For whatever reason I just didn't get that feeling. I failed to mention that we didn't spend all of our time locked up in museums. On Sunday we took a very nice cycling tour of the city, so this was perhaps my best chance to see Berlin itself. As far as architectural beauty goes, I really didn't find much. Granted, I believe that most of our time was spent in East Berlin, so concrete socialist architecture is expected. But even the famous touristy stuff did not do anything for me.

Berlin's number one flaw is the simple fact that it is not located on the Elbe. Furthermore, the street signs are white, whereas ours are blue. Blue is obviously a better color than white. Their main park is called the Tiergarten, whereas ours is the Grosser Garten. Grosser Garten is a better name because it is an alliteration, thus Dresden is a better city. In all seriousness, though, I find myself forced to compare Berlin to Dresden in order to explain why the famous touristy stuff in Berlin was completely lost on me. The comparison to Dresden is strictly for architectural purposes. Everyone tells me that Berlin is a better city, so I will just have to take their word for it. My emotional attachment to Dresden makes my opinion on the matter completely invalid. I basically get attached to any city I live in or spend a lot of time in, even if from an outsider's point of view it really isn't a nice place at all (see Blacksburg and Roanoke).

Let us begin with the Brandenburg Gate as an example, which is all the rage according to the post card industry. Yes, the gate itself is a fine example of architecture and is most pleasing to the eye. But it is one structure. It stands alone and does not do anything to interact with the structures around it. The same is true for all of the pretty buildings in Berlin--they are more or less on their own. Even if there are multiple pretty buildings in a given area, it is more or less just by chance. I invite you to take a scroll through my earlier blog entries. What do you notice as a general theme of my photographic coverage of Dresden's Innere Altstadt? For the most part, no picture contains just one single building. This is because I can't get too excited about a building on its own. I am more interested in how multiple buildings come together to form a pleasing scene. To be honest, I don't even know what most of those buildings in Innere Altstadt even are. I'm not too sure I really care, either (actually I do care, but just to enhance my knowledge of the history of the city). You may have noted that one exception is the palace in the park. To me, this is not an exception. No, it does not play with any buildings around it, as it is quite alone. It does, however, create a center focal point for the park. This type of "interaction", whether it be with other buildings, streets, a park, etc., is what gets me excited about architecture. I can't get too excited about a building on its own.

Maybe I should go back to Berlin, slow things down a bit, and see if I can actually get a feel for what the city is all about. I had a very fun weekend spending time with my friends, whether or not I am the number one fan of museums. I think that one of these weekends I am going to try and recreate the style of traveling which allowed me to experience Montreal so well. This will, of course, require a stay of longer than one or two nights, so this will most likely exclude my friends, all of which have a better work ethic than myself. I will choose between Amsterdam and Munich to see in this more laid back way, even if it has to be by myself.

Conclusions and Farewell

Although it all started due to a comment that I found to be inappropriate, I now find the back-and-forth interactions in our little "blogosphere" to be extremely fun. I still think we should keep the comments on this blog relatively clean, but for those of you who are enjoying this battle of immaturity, the main grounds can be found on Dan's new blog, and my new wiki. Links to both of these sites can be found on the left-hand side of this page. Note that the content on these two sites is exactly the kind of stuff I am trying to keep out of the comments here. You have been warned. You will be offended.

Frank and Greg, see you soon! Emily absolutely cannot wait to meet you.

I Am Afraid to Go Dancing

One Month Checkpoint

Welcome to another exciting installment of Jeff's life in Dresden. They always say that time flies when you're having fun and looking at the calendar, it would seem that I am unfortunately one-third of the way through my short time allotted to live in paradise. I guess this means I am supposed to be reflective, questioning whether the first month has gone as well as I would have hoped. I also probably should have done laundry by now. I hope I don't smell bad.

The truth is, coming into this I had no idea what to expect. Perhaps the major question to ask myself is whether Dresden feels like home. The answer to this question is a resounding "yes." This does not mean that I renounce what you could call my "real" home. I still acknowledge that my close friends and family live across the ocean, meaning that will always be my "home" in some sense of the word. As I mentioned to my friends last night as we were sitting on the banks of the Elbe drinking a few beers, as far as moving to a foreign place by myself goes, I cannot imagine a more comfortable city than Dresden in which to do so. Despite the language barrier and the fact that I have a very different cultural background, I would say that walking around the streets of Dresden feels every bit as comfortable as walking the street(s?) of Blacksburg. Of course I can't compare this to where I grew up, as I did not have "streets" per se.

I still don't feel disappointed in the way I have spent my time, but taking an objective look at my situation I do fall short in many areas. I have no close relationships with any German people; I have made little to no progress with the German language; I have not learned of any new music; I have not taken any substantial weekend trips. Despite these shortcomings, I have still grown as a person in ways I could have never imagined, and my outlook on life will never be the same after this experience. This has been more significant than anything I have ever done.

Coming to Terms With the Language Barrier

I came up with an analogy this week that tries to explain how I can feel so comfortable here despite the fact that I can't speak the language.

Imagine that you are walking down a hallway in a school, for example. You are passing countless doors on your left and right. The truth is, you have no reason to enter most of these doors. They are various classrooms and offices which simply don't concern you. The doors that you have no business in are the German-speaking people that dominate the streets. The doors such as bathrooms and the classroom you are looking for are the English-speaking people that you already have an association with. Just like you can't walk down a hallway in a public building and enter any old door you wish, I can't walk down the streets of Dresden and have the ability to speak to any given person. That's just the way it is, and it's surprisingly easy to accept as a fact after a while. It does not make me feel any more alienated than walking down the hallway of a public building does (not at all).

Work Continues to be Pleasant and Enlightening

I am really getting into my research project, and have made a good amount of progress (in my opinion). Last fall I had a job which was supposed to be relevant to my education, but ended up being less so than my job delivering pizzas at Papa John's with Tony in northern Baltimore County. At least then I got to use interpersonal skills. This summer, ironically, I feel that my job is even more educational than my undergraduate coursework itself. No offense to Virginia Tech (or Technische Universitaet Blacksburg, as I like to call it), as without the background I was given in school, I would certainly not have the skills to perform the work I am doing now.

I am actually going to take this opportunity to complain about Virginia Tech, in ways which may offend some people. Aside from entrepreneurship, there are two main paths an engineer can take: Corporate and academic. Throughout my undergraduate career, the well-meaning academic advisors have never ceased to explain the importance of internships, and learning how to act in a corporate setting. I receive countless e-mails through the list-serv about career fairs and internship offers from defense contractors. Yes, as a young and idealistic student, my number one priority is to help the U.S. government come up with new and better ways to kill my fellow human beings. As I am beginning to learn on my own by talking to professors and graduate students, and by working in the academic environment both at the Math Emporium and here at TU Dresden, the prerequisite "extra curricular" activities for those of us wishing to continue in the direction of teaching and research are completely different than those going down the corporate career path. First of all, research experience helps. Also, a strong math background is invaluable as could be. Why has this never been stressed to me in the same manner as internships with corporations have been? According to a ranking system that I have no respect for whatsoever, Virginia Tech is supposed to have a reasonably good faculty of engineering. Am I to understand that none of us are expected to be bright enough to continue in academia? Or do they just think that those who have the ability to do so are smart enough to figure it out on their own? In all fairness, I have not been taking advantage of the University Honors Program nearly as much as I should. Perhaps this is the place where these great truths are revealed.

A Boring Seminar and a Socially Amusing Situation

I Am Bad with Names and Faces

On Tuesday morning, a girl sits down at the computer next to me. She waves and says "hi" to me. This is very unusual behavior for Germans, so I am caught off guard. I give her a quick smile, throw on my headphones, and get to work. As usual when lunch comes around, I tell my friends Vivek and Sammet (spelling HAS to be wrong) that I'm hungry, and we go for lunch. Things continue like normal. On Thursday, there is a seminar about MIMO (Multiple Input Multiple Output) wireless communications that I would like to attend. About fifteen minutes before it is to start, I log off of my computer and start to pack up. Woops, I forgot to check what room it is in. So I ask this shy albeit friendly girl who sits next to me what room the seminar in, and she tells me, and says, "We can just walk down together," to which I truthfully reply, "Thanks, but I am going to stop by the bathroom first."

I stand around outside of the door where the seminar is to take place, and the mystery girl approaches. She passes close to someone and says "Excuse me." That's right. "Excuse me."

"Wait a minute, you don't speak German?"

"Nope, not a word," she replies.

Something is fishy here. At this point, happy I have found another English-only speaker, I begin conversing with her. We eventually start talking about the advantages and disadvantages of air conditioning. She says that at her school, all of the buildings are, out of necessity, air conditioned.

"Oh, where do you go to school?" I ask.

"Duke."

CRAP!!! It clicked. The person who was trying to be friendly with me all week, and I all but ignored, was Rae, one of my fellow RISE participants whom I had met just a week before! I felt extremely stupid. From this point on, we conversed and acted friendly with each other (as we should). As soon as I feel comfortable that I know her well enough, I will come clean and admit that I simply didn't recognize her. This probably will not be necessary, though. From her end, there were two ways to judge the situation: Either I did not recognize her, or I am a huge jerk. I would have to be a pretty big jerk to act towards her the way I did.

The Boring Seminar

The seminar began at 16:40, and I had plans to meet my poor, sick friend at 17:45 at the hauptbahnhof. I'm not sure why I was so convinced the seminar would only last 45 minutes, but I was. About a half hour into the seminar all I could really do was nervously glance at my pocket watch. It was held in a very small room, and everyone was sitting around a U-shaped board room style table, including the professor. The room was a bit overcrowded. There was no way in hell I could get out of that room without making a big scene of it. Then, a sign from God. The sun comes out from behind the clouds, and makes the projector screen he is using completely unreadable.

"Oh well, looks like we're going to have to move to another room," says the professor.

How perfect is that? The professor even joked that "This is a perfect opportunity for those of you who are getting bored to leave." Perfect indeed, Professor. Perfect.

I Am Afraid to Go Dancing

The Evening Begins in Peace and Civility

On Friday evening, Navin and I met with Emily, an old friend of hers who is participating in a similar program elsewhere in Germany, and someone whom Emily's friend had met through said program. Dinner was nice. Afterwards, we went to the same biergarten that we always take Dresden newcomers. At this point, I felt everyone got along well. I enjoyed conversing with these people. Why did I specifically avoid going out with them on Saturday night? Read on!

Let's Go Out!

Okay! It was about 23:00, and as it turns out, some people actually care about how they look. So the out-of-towners went back to their hostel to change, and I went back to Navin's dorm room. We met at the hauptbahnhof at around 23:50. We decided that we wanted to go to a club, and to make things easy, we would just find something on this side of the river.

This was the first mistake. If any of you young people ever go to Dresden for any reason, remember this one very important rule: Never, EVER go to a club in Altstadt. Neustadt is where you will find unique places that are packed with character, and most often target some sort of counterculture. Anything in Altstadt will intend to appeal to the populace.

The Club

As soon as I set foot in the door, I could tell this was not my kind of place. The people were simply not my kind of people, and the club itself was, well, "nice." I like places that have a sense of uniqueness that cannot be replicated. This was just "nice"--it probably cost a lot to build, and that's about it. I also did not like the music at all--it was very electronic, and didn't seem like the kind of thing that someone like my friend David (who has a knack for labeling music to be universally "good" or "bad" and isn't afraid to say it) would allow to be called well-crafted music. It was simply sound that fueled the dancing, and had no artistic value beyond that. At this point, my outlook was that my experience at this club would be just that much more humorous, because I was so out of place. Being out of place can be funny if you have the right attitude.

At this point, I was able to step back and laugh at the fact that I was in this club. Then two things happened that made me sick to be in there, and sick to believe that this slice of culture existed. The first thing involves video screens, placed at the periphery of the dancing area, that flashed colors in tune to the music. I noticed that about once every sixty seconds, the logo for the "Red Bull Energy Drink" beverage would flash on the screen for about half a second. If this is not considered "subliminal advertising," then I don't know what is. As with most people living in this Brave New World, I have been subjected to unwelcome advertising my whole life. Never has anything sent chills down my spine the way this did. The second thing that happened related to a song that was played. Most of the music played had no lyrics, but this was an exception. A voice came over the loudspeaker. An English voice (I am approximating): "Ladies, get on your Guccis, your [expensive sunglasses brand 2], ... , your [expensive sunglasses brand n-1], your [expensive sunglasses brand n]!" The lyrics of the song itself had something to do with the advantages and disadvantages of wearing sunglasses at night. My previous reference to Aldous Huxley's masterpiece is not incidental: Being in this club made me feel that I was in some future dystopia where intelligence was all but banned.

The Girl

So I was in some weird-ass club that made me feel out of place. Perhaps I could handle this. What really topped off this evening and made it have a lasting emotional effect on me was a girl who imposed herself to dance with me, whom I had no interest in whatsoever and would have rather kept a safe distance from. It was not a random girl from the club, but one whom I had arrived with. I enjoyed my conversation with her, but had no interest in her beyond that. She was dancing with me, and as you can imagine, this is no ball-room dancing. I'll leave you to create your own mental picture. The problem is that I really had no "out." The music was not going to stop, and clubs don't exactly close early in Dresden. I had no idea what to do. Eventually, at around 02:30 or so, I just played it off as if I were tired and wanted to go home.

The Walk Home

It's not really the dancing itself that bothered me. I could have continued, albeit bored, without feeling too uncomfortable. What really bothered me is the fact that I did not know how to deal with the situation in a way which would allow me to continue enjoying my night. Granted the whole "club culture" is new to me. I get excited when I discover my own shortcomings, as it allows me to stop questioning why I may act a certain way in certain situations. But I really can't pinpoint why I completely failed to handle this situation.

When I walk down a street, I spare no brain power in observing every little detail around me. Even if it is a street that isn't especially nice, or a street that I walk even on a daily basis, there is a mathematically infinite number of observations to be made. When I walked up Prager Strasse on Friday night, though, I stared at the ground a meter in front of me. I was so wrapped up in thought that should I have looked up at the city around me, my brain would have exploded due to an overload. I more or less forgot I was even in a city. For better or for worse, seeing the tram tracks passing underneath my feet didn't seem to remind me.

Two Wheels and a Portable CD Player
When I woke up on Saturday morning, I realized that I do not have the skills necessary to interact with other people, so decided to take a nice and pensive bike ride up to a city called Pirna--by myself. The ride itself was so nice that I took the same exact ride today. It is about 40 km round trip, but completely flat. I plan on making this a regular activity, similar to the Huckleberry Trail in Blacksburg. The ride is much nicer than going in the direction of Meissen, and the city of Pirna suits me much better than the city of Meissen. The narrow streets are there, but on the whole I feel that I am in a nice, albeit small, city that is relevant to the present day. I found the doener stand within five minutes of entering the street grid.

Saturday Night--Just What I Needed

Saturday was my first opportunity to spend some quality time with Jess. This is good, because it turns out we have a lot in common. We are both very independent people who enjoy the perks of spending time alone, but appreciate the company of others just the same. She also has a similar attitude towards the future, that compared to what our lives are right now, it's not looking so great. I doubt that when I am thirty I will be able to randomly move to a German city for three months. She is also critical of America, likes to read, and found the corporate world to be just short of vomit-inducing.

We began our evening by sharing a bottle of wine and were joined shortly thereafter by our Ohioan friends. We went down to the doener stand near our residence, enjoyed our evening meal, and decided to meet some of the other Ohioans down on the Elbe to have a few beers. This was a very nice experience, just sitting there, drinking, enjoying the conversation. Going "out" has its perks, but sometimes this kind of thing can be even better. We even made it home by 01:00, which I am told is considered early for people our age.

A Few Notes on Commenting

As I am sure you are aware by now, my self esteem is solely dependent on the quantity and quality of comments I receive on this blog. While I appreciate the effort of everyone who is working hard to make me a happier person, it has come time to deliver a reminder that comments must be appropriate for the wide audience which this blog enjoys. Unfortunately, I was recently forced to edit the comment of a well-meaning reader due to inappropriate sexual content. The necessity of censorship is a reflection of those being censored. Should everyone express themselves in a way which is appropriate to the forum of expression, no censorship should be necessary. There is a time and place for certain kinds of self expression. Someone may have a perfectly legitimate opinion on whether it should be legal to include racist comments on milk cartons. I encourage this person to express their opinions in the appropriate forum. A kindergarten classroom, for example, would not be the appropriate place to express these opinions. Similarly, this blog, which is read by persons of varying age and relationship to myself, is not the place to make immature comments about the link between night life and homosexuality. I am not going to allow some of my readers to be alienated due to the inappropriateness of certain comments. This would be devastating to my self esteem. Thanks again to those of you who continue to make audience-appropriate comments.

The Scarriest Weekend Of My Life

Welcome and Introduction

The title of today's entry implies that there are bad things to come. This would not be a false assessment. But alas, I am a very obsessive compulsive person. So although it feels terribly trivial writing about other things before we reach this climax, the format of the blog has been chronological thus far, and therefor shall remain so.

Blacksburg: A Special Place

Wal-Mart: The Anti-Place



Ordinance 1450 Passes Unanimously

Rejoice! For on Tuesday evening (Eastern Daylight Time) the Blacksburg Town Council voted to protect the ever-so volatile character of our town by passing an ordinance which limits the development of retail stores over 80,000 square feet. This has been on my mind for a while, even though I had enough faith in the council to do the right thing. Earlier this week I awoke from a nightmare that The Lyric (our historic, community-owned, not-for-profit movie theater) had closed down. It was a very vivid dream: I remember that the marque read "The End." As soon as I awoke I looked out my window, thanked whatever higher being I may or may not believe in that I am in Dresden (I actually do this several times a day, or hour for that matter) and went to the Lyric's website to reconfirm that it was, in fact, a dream. So despite the fact that I am living in the closest thing to a utopia which I could ever imagine exists on this planet, my emotional attachment to Blacksburg still runs strong. The idea that this town, which means so much to me and so many others, is seen as something to be mined for profit by a group of soulless capitalists in Bentonville, Arkansas just makes me sick.

Worse yet is that if Wal-Mart were to move into town, it would probably financially succeed. This brings us to a greater problem. Virginia Tech is home to 25,000 students, many of whom were raised in suburbs under a value structure which tells them to point their steering wheel in the direction of the lowest price available without a second thought. The value of community is rapidly declining in America. Instead of paying enough taxes to make our communities better places to live, we would rather save a few bucks for that new wide-screen television.

Fine, fine... Back to Dresden...

Friday - Evening in Neustadt with Ohioans

The Stoop moves to the second floor

The time was 18:00, and I was doing as anyone else would be at this time of evening on a Friday: Ready Aldous Huxley's "Brave New World." That is, until I hear a knock on my door. It's Jess.
"Hey, Jess, how are you doing?" I inquire.
"Fine. I'm ready to drink."
Fair enough. This is more akin to the kind of things I am used to hearing from my friends in Blacksburg; but hey, we're young. In all fairness, Jess did not get into town until Monday evening and has been working very long hours ever since. She has not had time to sit back, relax, socialize, and most importantly, get over her jet lag. So we go up to Teri's room and share a bottle of wine while we plan out the rest of the evening. Unfortunately one small bottle of wine doesn't go far between three young people, so we had to go to the grocery store to purchase more. On our way out, we happened to run into some people from Ohio we had met a week ago. They are here to teach English as a second language to middle school children. What brave souls. So we join them on "the rock garden," which is eerily similar to the Pritchard Stoop. Our building has a single-story entryway, the gravel-covered roof of which can be accessed via the second-floor balcony. We hung out there and had a few beers before we went out for the evening.

We Cross the Elbe

We made an amazing discovery this evening that the tram is free if you don't pay for it. I don't plan on making a habit of this for two reasons: First of all, I feel bad mooching off of socialism, and secondly, it is unnerving to sit on a tram knowing that you are there illegally. We met some high school students on board who found it very humorous that we were actually talking that funny way that they have been learning about in second period.

After we made it to Neustadt, we began our evening in a civilized manner, by having another drink in a biergarten. We relaxed, and then many of us felt hungry. What do young people do in German cities when they get hungry at night? Eat doener, of course!

Large Group Syndrome

After eating doener amidst the most colorful of doener stand owners, we decided it was time to go dancing. Out of character, you say? Well, let me ask you this: When have I ever lived in a place where dancing was really an option? At this point, our group was about ten strong. Not for long, as apparently we disagreed on how to get to the place where we wanted to dance. So by the time we finally arrived at a bar with a D. J. and a dance floor, we were down to about six. As soon as we arrived, Emily, Teri and I immediately grabbed beers and hit the dance floor. We went to check on the others; but alas, they were nowhere to be found.

On the walk back, we agreed that although we had fun, it wasn't too great of a time. They played a lot of cliche, English-language dance music, and there were far too many males on the dance floor. At one point a mosh pit broke out, and worse yet, some creepy guy started hitting on Emily, which she did not appreciate. Did I step in, act tough, and reinforce that she was not interested like any good male friend should? Ha ha, you guys know me better than that. I just continued to dance awkwardly until the situation had blown over.

Saturday - You Cruel, Cruel Saturday

The Cycle Trip to Meissen Begins

On Saturday, Emily and I finally decided to make our long-planned cycling trip to Meissen a reality. It started off as a wonderful day. It began at Emily's flat where we packed sandwiches, as this just seemed like one of those "pack sandwiches" type of days. I must say I am quite jealous of where Emily gets to live. She lives with three authentic German people in a more authentic part of the city which was not destroyed by the firebombing. When I looked out her window, the view inspired the same observation as when I first looked out of the window of my brother's relatively new row-house residence. That is, you are immediately confronted with a close-up image of architecture which does not let you forget what city it is that you live in. Although this is even better, as her street exhibits vertical mixed-usage (that is shops on the ground floor with three floors of apartments above). I would take this over the aerial view from my GDR commie high rise any day.

Windmill Sandwiches

We knew this trip would take longer than the hour and a half or so it would normally take to cycle 30 km on a flat river trail because we would be taking in the gorgeous scenery that awaited us after every bend. Just five minutes into the journey, I saw an image which I have dreamed about and associated with the European countryside ever since I was aware of the presence of land on the opposite side of the Atlantic Ocean. This image is that of a traditional dutch-style windmill set back in a meadow. We could not resist the urge to frolic.



And what a better way to continue basking in the presence of this windmill than Windmill Sandwiches?



Disaster.

We said goodbye to our wind mill and continued up the trail towards Meissen. Everything was going well. We were having a great time, and the countryside was beautiful. About four kilometers away from Meissen, I look behind me to see if Emily is keeping up on her GDR commie-bike only to find that she and her bike are down on the ground. She was not wearing a helmet. Terror shot through my heart. Is she okay? Well, she's conscious. That's a start. What do you do in this situation? What the hell do you do? I offer her water. She is unable to accept. When she is finally able to speak, I am even more scared. It reminded me of speaking to my eighty-year-old grandmother. But Emily is not eighty years old. She is my friend, my peer.
"Where are we?"
"About 4 km from Meissen."
"Are we riding to Meissen?"
"We were, yeah."
"And how far are we?"
"About 4 km."
"How far are we from Meissen?"
"About 4 km."
She could hardly recollect any details of our cycling trip: It was all a dream. What windmill?

I am panicking.

We Need Help

Luckily German people like to cycle, so the trail is not a lonely place. People began to crowd around as they passed to ask us if we needed help. This is always tricky in a situation like this: Do we need medical attention? The safest answer is always "yes." An ambulance is called.

The medical crew spoke English and the people who called for us were on hand to help with further translations. I sat there on the side of the trail not really knowing what to do, albeit slightly satisfied that Emily was in the best place she could be at this time, under these circumstances: in an ambulance. I was not surprised to learn that I would not be allowed to ride in the ambulance, and was given cycling directions to the Dresden Neustadt Hospital twenty kilometers away. After the police arrived and the ambulance and rescue crews cleared away, I begin riding in the direction of the hospital.

CRACK.

My chain broke. My friend was being transported to a hospital twenty kilometers away and my damn chain broke.

The Back of a German Police Car

I flag down the police car that had come to assist. Neither of the policemen spoke a word of English. I show them to broken chain and they comprehend. I am driven to a police station.

No one here spoke any English either. They sit me down at a table opposite a policeman and photocopy my passport (If my chain never broke, I would not have been here to begin with, right?). He starts making phone calls. The only word I can understand is the word "English" itself. Finally, he is successful. The police wanted a simple statement from me and had to get it via a speaker phone translator. After they feel satisfied, they walk out to the parking area with my, and wave goodbye. Are you serious? The hospital is still ten kilometers away! At this point I felt I had enough German police for one day, so I pulled out my multi-tool and fixed the chain in their parking area.

The Recovery Begins

I made it to the hospital with no issues after this and could finally rest assured that Emily was going to be okay. I was a bit shaken up last night when I learned from her room mates that she would be spending a second night in the hospital. But alas, although she is bored to tears due to her strict "no reading" order from the doctor, it seems everything will be okay in good time.

Sunday - Solo Trip to Meissen



Saturday was too much for me. I needed some alone time. I grabbed my bike and my headphones and headed where else but Meissen. I was by myself, and had already seen most of the scenery. Not much to talk about here. I wasn't too thrilled with the City of Meissen. Yes, it had narrow streets.



I have always been a strong fan of narrow streets, but perhaps this is one of those good things that only works in moderation. I almost felt claustrophobic navigating the streets, yearning to find the exit to this maze and sit on the wide-open banks of the Elbe. I was probably both the only young person in the whole city as evidenced by the fact that I had to wonder around for 15 minutes before I found a doener stand. That's not the Germany I've come to know and love.

Conclusions and Farewell

This was an emotionally difficult experience for me and, much more so, a physically painful experience for Emily.

To my cycling friends, I know I can't force you to do anything. Even if you think you are somehow invincible and above the laws of physics, I advise you to think about your own safety and about those who care about your well-being:



WEAR A HELMET!!!!!!!!!